The Lodge Restaurant in Bel Air

"A Fish Even a Fat Boy Could Like"

Like Michael Scott’s That’s What She Said, my friend Big Ry can find a way to work Is That a Fat Joke? into any conversation. If I say I like your shirt or Do you want something to eat?, Big Ry is quick with his line. His body is stiff. He sounds defensive. And he looks pissed. Then he is laughing. This is his humor. It’s all part of the Big Ry shtick.

The shtick comes to dinner with us at the relatively new Bel Air restaurant The Lodge. I ask him what he thinks of our appetizer, rockfish bites with spicy aioli.

This is a fish even a fat boy could like, he says.

I know what he’s trying to say. Big Ry has been to The Lodge many times and eaten many rockfish bites. Big Ry really likes this fish.

That’s good for him because rockfish is the superstar of the seafood offerings at The Lodge. In addition to the rockfish bites, there is a rockfish wrap and an entrée of basil rockfish with diced tomatoes. Rockfish is also paired with crab in two entrees and one quesadilla.

The kitchen also offers inexpensive bar food – wraps, sandwiches, burgers, quesadillas – in addition to their moderately priced list of steak and seafood entrees served with rice pilaf or smashed red bliss potatoes.

Many of the menu items seem heavy with rich sauces or dips. Looking for a healthier option, I order the grilled tuna and mango salsa appetizer as my entree.

Satisfied with rockfish for the night, Big Ry goes for the Texan Salad – mixed field greens topped with corn, lightly fried chicken tenders, smoked applewood bacon, diced tomatoes, cheddar and jack cheese.

It’s a cool July night and we are seated in the outdoor dining area. We must have done a good deed that day because karma has given us a table next to the miniature waterfall and one of The Lodge’s fire pits. A row of trees separates us – respectable dinner patrons – from the outdoor bar, which is crowded for the Thursday Night Deck Party. The whole outdoor space feels upbeat, thanks in part to the party’s three $5 drinks (Orange Crush, Grapefruit Crush, and Caribbean Crush are offered.).

My tuna hits all of the flavor and texture points – salty, sweet, crunchy, creamy . Big Ry likes his salad but disappoints, eating only half.

You aren’t going to finish?, I ask. I don’t know why I bothered. I already know his response.

The Lodge, located at 2119 Conowingo Road in Bel Air, MD, offers a lively atmosphere and at least three satisfying dishes. Phone: 410-838-2240. The restaurant doesn’t have a website, but a map and other reviews can be found here.

The Lodge: Dining on the Left, Bar on the Right

Big Ry enjoys a pint of water